Trans-Siberian
Moby | 28/10/2007Its like being packed alive in a sardine can, except its every type of fish.
I ended up on a train from Irkutsk to Moscow. One that no tourists take. Be as it may this was fun. My carriage was made up of a family surrounding me, 10 young Russians who had just finished their 2 year military stint. A handful of Turkmenistan’ians(?), The remainder being Russians that found it amusing to see a non Ruski bumble around for 5 days on the train.
Highlights:
When a magazine seller came through the car, I grabbed a Sudoku book. The grandmother beside me however went for the broadsheet porn mag. She was careful not to let the little ones see what she was looking at but it was very funny to see an oldie perving.
I had been told by everyone I met in Irkutsk to take at least 2 bottles of vodka with me on the train.
By the second night I I had met all the younger people and anyone that knew a word or none of English. The Army boys and Turks were drinking beer so I grabbed a bottle of vodka. I sat down with the army boys and asked if they wanted to drink it with me.
They signalled no way, slicing their throats with their finger and saying just beer.
So I moved onto the Turkmenis. They too didn’t want to drink it. One of them then said yes, I think out of manners to be a good host.
In Russian tradition 3 people should share a bottle. And if its only two, one will say they will drink for the 3rd.
I said we should drink an equal share. 4 toasts later it was all gone. (not such small shots)
After that I then joined the army boys for a few beers.
Not long after that I got tucked into bed by the providnitsa, with restraint straps to prevent me falling out of my bunk.
I spent more on Snacks for the ride than the actual ticket cost. Including $10 for 200g of almonds. I had even carefully compared the labels and pricing on the shelves. However I Didn’t pay attention while at the checkout.
Cruising through the siberian countryside, jumping off at the little towns to get meals from the local old ladies waiting on the platform.
Drunken singalongs with the army boys at 7am. Crossing 9 time zones slowly really does your body clock in.