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Khajuraho & its Erotic Temples

Moby | 21/7/2006

Post arrival and having a chat with my friendly hotel manager.

He asertained I am single. then stated that I must most defaintely must come back again once I have a girlfriend/wife. So that she can look/learn from the carvings and my life wont be boring.

We couldnt find more than 10 of the supposed complete karma sutra poses. Not even the one with the horse as described in the Lonely planet! (THE BOOK)

 

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Orcha

Moby |

Wow, I thought I was palace/fort’ed out.

Until I left rajastan into MP and Orcha. Im not architecurally excited. But This fort is Indo Islamic (from memory). So quite different to all the Mughal palaces in Rajastan.  Im now down to a $15 film camera. So it will be mumbai I think before pics are online.

The Palace was being restored, so sitting and watching the indians working was really interesting

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Overlanding 101

Moby | 14/7/2006

You make the decision in a moment of weakness to consider going on an organised overland. How do you start?
First, decide roughly where you want to go, for how long and how much money you have.
Search endlessly on internet for something suitable, give up, have second thoughts and post the following question on a forum like the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree, “Should I go on an organised overland or do it by myself?”
Weigh up all the conflicting arguments from the posters, discard all the advice and then decide to do it anyway, the alternative, independent travel, seems too daunting.

Post next question on the forums,
“Can anyone recommend an overland company to go from Nairobi to Capetown?”
Trawl through all the disparate answers and then revert to the first option but trying to have more patience this time.
Narrow results down to four or five companies and post the following again, “Has anyone got anything good or bad to say about the following companies for an overland…………….”
Read all answers, decide the good reviews must be working for the company and the bad ones must be working for the other companies.

Go to bed, wake up in the middle of the night, think, “Sod it”, switch on the computer and on impulse (‘cause you like the look of the girl/boy in the photo on the web site of company “b”) fill out the application form and send your deposit off by credit card.
Go back to bed and have second thoughts, get up again, log on to the forums and post following message, “I’ve just booked to do an overland with …… have I done the right thing?”
Compare answers with those of friends at home and find that it’s an even split between, “Wow!” and “Dickhead”.

Highlight date on calendar and start counting down the days.
Make endless “TTBD” lists (Things To Be Done) and realise that you’ll need a holiday just to get over the preparation and stress of sorting the bloody thing out.
Keep posting questions along the lines of
“How cold/hot will it be”
“What sleeping bag should I take”
“Will I need a mossie net”
“What vaccinations do I need”
“How much money should I take”
“What if I don’t get on with the others on the truck” etc etc.

WARNING -
At no time should you actually pick up a guide book or search the internet for any information pertaining to where you are actually going, what you are going to see, how to interact with the locals without giving offence, history of the countries, culture or anything relating to the actual substance of the trip, only for information regarding the preparation and execution of said overland.
You’ve come to realise that when you turn up on Day 1 you can always ask the Leader/Driver questions like,
“Why is it so dusty here?”,
“Why can’t I wear shorts in that Mosque?”,
“Are there any nude beaches?”
“Why do they smell so much?”
“Why don’t they understand English?”
“Why is the food so crap?”
“Where is the nearest McDonalds?, I want real food tonight”.
Leaders really love those types of questions, makes them feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

One thing to be done is work something out regarding travelling times.
E.g. from the company info it says how far it is from Nairobi to Capetown and how long the trip lasts. So you divide the distance by the time and find out that you’ll be driving only about 120km per day.
Great! Only a couple of hours driving in the truck each day at the most! More like an hour and a half!
(Boy oh boy, are you going to be disappointed)

So eventually you pack your bag, get the flight and meet up with everyone else at the pre-departure hotel.
First thing you do, even though you swore that it didn’t matter, is to check out the group to see who’s cute.
Then you check out their clothing, footwear etc to see who looks as though they’ve just bought them for the trip (obviously not an experienced traveller) or who has good stuff but well worn (experienced traveller) or who has cheap grotty kit that’s falling apart (waster who’ll always be looking out for what he can cadge and who never buys a round at the bar)

To save a lot of hassle and time getting to know people overland groups nearly always have a mix of the following types of persons -

You, completely normal, no phobias, nice person, willing to save the planet and hug trees.
The woman running away from a difficult relationship who thinks being on an overland will give her time to find the answer (trust me, no it wont)
The guy who everyone thinks is gay but states he has a girlfriend at home and slips up from time to time with what her name is, where she works and her date of birth and blushes whenever the driver/leader talks to him.
The two lads out for some crumpet.

The younger couple in love who always blow kisses at each other (not for long, they’re on an overland, I’ll give it three weeks before they’re at each others throat and refuse to share a tent together)
The stunning looking girl/woman who is instrumental in the split up of the couple because she is insecure in herself and turns to the “safe” guy, the one in a relationship, for help. He sees her vulnerable side and just “wants to help” (get in her knickers more like).
The dirty, smelly young ageing hippy type who smells of urine and stale sweat all the time who no-one wants to sit next to on the truck.
The “know it all” who prefaces every sentence with “When I was in……”

The one who compares every bit of scenery with their home country e.g. “It just looks like a smaller version of Sydney Harbour Bridge”.
The girl or man who wants to bed the driver.
The “thoroughly nice bloke” who is actually a violent drunk.
The bewildered couple that take photos of every last thing as though they’re on a foreign planet and no-one really knows how they got on the trip and plucked up the courage to come.
The guy who always wants to go somewhere else and can say nothing other than “Why don’t we go to ……on the trip. It’s so much better than here”

The man/woman who asks all the daft questions, e.g. “Why do they (the Maasai) drink cows blood mixed with milk? Don’t they know it’s disgusting and unhealthy?”
“If I phone my mother, will she be at home?”
“Why is he cleaning his teeth with that stick, can’t they afford toothpaste here?”
My favourite question, asked whilst sitting in a beach café on Zanzibar, “How high above sea level are we?”
Answer, “Which part of your body are you talking about?”
And they’re the one who always calls the truck a “bus”. Grrrrrr.

Last but not least, the “Walking Lonely Planet”. This is the one who, whenever the leader gives out some information on a place or activity, always disagrees and says, “Well, it says in the Lonely Planet (e.g.) …it only cost twenty dollars and you’re telling us it’s thirty dollars.”
(this person suddenly finds their copy of the LP has been used to light the fire or is hanging up on a piece of string in the campsite toilet with various sheets ripped out.)
Note – Lonely Planet paper is no good for wiping bottom with, the sheets are too slippery, causes smearing rather than cleaning, especially the photo pages.

You start the trip on the first day after the usual polite shuffle as to who’s going to sit where. This ends on day 4 when everyone realises what are the best seats and will rush on to grab them.
After a week you notice a lot of conversations are about food.
After a few weeks you realise you have a magic rucksack. You put clothes in there you could swear blind were dirty, but when you compare them with what you have on, they seem remarkably clean. Maybe the rucksack, if left alone for several days, will clean all your clothes?!

This is where it starts to get gross.
Kids, miss out the next few paragraphs if squeamish.
You start using the 4-day underwear – day 1, normal fitting, day 2 back to front, day 3 inside out but normal fitting, day 4 inside out and back to front. One girl told me she extended this several times by at the end of the fourth day “scraping the crusty bits off” Yeeouw! Disgusting, too much information!
You’ve run out of toilet roll and begin to use the “one sheet” method, as follows -
Do business, take one sheet of paper, poke hole in centre, place middle finger through hole, put hand under bottom, scrape off excess crap with finger, pull finger back through hole and, with the other hand, close paper around finger to clean it off. Make mental
note not to bite fingernails.

Pissing at the side of the road is “de rigueur” for overlands. It is definitely more hygienic plus service stations with clean toilets (or any toilets, or in fact any service stations at all) are non-existent.
Generally it is boys to one side and girls to the other and the truck will stop whenever necessary though constant stopping and starting plays havoc with the driving times between campsites.

Have you problems with your bladder or bowels normally?
Bear in mind that if it is hot then you will need to drink more, but you will notice that at first you wont drink enough and the frequency of peeing is reduced.
A rule of thumb is that the darker your pee is then the more dehydrated you are. It should be nearly clear, just a hint of a colour.
If your pee becomes very dark, contains blood and it is excruciating to go – then you are in serious trouble and are about to die.
If you have diarrhoea badly, lose all your fluids, don’t take any electrolytes and fluids, miss out on the IV drip, fall into a coma – you are about to die. (Cont)

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Kota

Moby |

Well I’m now travelling solo. Last night I realised that up till now in india (1.5months) Ive only been solo 7 days.

And THE BOOK is now getting a good workout as I actually create an itinerary for the remaining weeks.

So here is me today in Kota. The book describes it as a city of 600,000. and a transport hub. tourists dont go here (I can vouch for that!).

So today has consisted of:

Being asked for an autograph, onto the palm of his hand. And thus having to do the same for 5+ others.

Being spotted in the street and hearing the exclamations pass along the st. Then being followed for a couple of blocks.

Being ridiculously lost in the city for a good few hours to waste time waiting for my bus.

As I couldnt find any places that were busy to eat. I referred to THE BOOK, and its only suggestion is refer to its accommodation suggestions.

So I go to one that has ‘excellent food’. And ask about the resturant. They say wait there. 20mins later, I am led to a formal dining room. where there is a table formally set for 1. And Thali is served. I say I wanted a menu, and how much is this going to cost.

The response being 250 rupees. You can get a great thali from a street side resturant for 15.

Indias Definition of great transport hub:

To go to a city that is connected by a line (major road) on my india map to Kota via one town at a junction requires no less than 3 changes. This is for Train or Bus.

So Im catching the 9pm first leg. Guessing there wont be a connecting bus tonight. Meh. Nothing like being in a place that THE BOOK refers to in 4 lines :)

Current itinerary for the remainder of my trip looks like this:

  • Jhansi/Orcha
  • Khajuraho
  • Pachmarhi
  • Bhopal/Sanchi
  • Mandu
  • Jaigaon
  • Mumbai

All part of the fun :)

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Udaipur

Moby | 11/7/2006

Argh, ive hit the monsoon!

Grey skys and rain is the order of every day. Cool palaces here, as seen in the James Bond movie Octopussy. Had a lax couple of days and catch a sleeper bus tonight for Bundi. Back inland and away from the grey!

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Desert Life

Moby | 9/7/2006

What an adventrure. As Lauren put it, it toally felt like it was us Vs the elements.

Day 1 was scorching hot, ~45+degrees. its quite amazing/disturbing to drink 10+ of your body weight in water and only go to the toilet once!

Dust storms hit in the afternoon, and this became a common occurence. 1st time was interesting, by the third day (constant dust storm) the novelty had definately worn off.

Watching the storms roll in is amazing, and my camera was sacrificed in the making of the pictures. So im currently 1 Camera RIP. Hopefully getting it cleaned will sort it.

Amazing trip, and very tiring considering there is much lying in the shade of trees, and sitting on a camel.

did a night train back to Jodhpur, primarily for one more Lassi! and then bussed today to Udaipur. Well and truly out of the desert and into the lush areas of monsoon vegetation.

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Jaisalmer & the camel safari

Moby | 4/7/2006

Arrived into Jaisalmer this morning and have arranged our 3 day camel safari into the desert. Great weather forecast: temperatures ranging from 45 – 48 degrees. who would have thought just a few weeks ago I was below zero and getting snowed on. all the in the same country. 

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Jodhpur

Moby | 3/7/2006

Well arrived in Jodphur today from Pushkar. it is definately getting the desert feeling happening when youre seeing succulents growing beside the road.

Hasnt been too hot, and been having some amazing lassies (yoghurt drink) esp Saffron Lassies.. wow.

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Fatehpur Sikri and its love hotel

Moby |

Another of those weird experiences.

This is a tiny town, we only saw 2 guest houses on the way into town. The first was undergoing renovations so ended up staying at the other.

Even when we went to inspect, it was a bit odd. They said there was rooms free but not untill 4pm (a couple of hours later). where most hotels/GH have checkout by 12.

Anyway we end up checked in, and we sitting in the common area, and I can see the entrance. An indian man and woman cautiously enter the building walk up a bit, see me and seem to get spooked. The manager tells them its ok. but they leave.

It seems that the hotel provides rooms on a per hour basis for those indians who need some ‘rest time’. All and all quite funny spending a couple of days hanging out there.

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